A Taste of Sicily: Creamy Lemon Pasta with Stracciatella & Smoked Ham

You really need to try this pasta dish at least once — though whether you should do it at the trattoria where I first tasted it… that’s another question.

A few years ago, Harry and I stumbled onto an amazing trattoria in Palermo. And it happened to be a Sunday! We were wandering the city more or less aimlessly — we were hungry, but our usual go-to trattorias, the ones where we're practically regulars, were of course closed.

I honestly couldn't tell you how we ended up there, but I do remember it was March, and on the sun-drenched little terrace almost every table was taken, mostly by local families finishing up a long lunch — some of them already sitting back in that post-meal food coma. An American tourist nearby was working her way through an insalata di arance e finocchi (orange and fennel salad).

Here's something I've noticed around these parts: Sunday is a real family day. People go out with the whole family — and I don't just mean the immediate household, but aunts, uncles, grandparents, in-laws, the works — to a trattoria. The atmosphere in a place like that is honestly fantastic. If you're thinking about going to a trattoria on a Sunday: make a reservation! Go on any other day, though, and it can be dead quiet. Completely different vibe.

Not only was the mood on that terrace amazing, the food looked incredible too. Harry and I felt like we'd hit the jackpot — what a find! Except... the kitchen had just closed. Such a shame, because I really wanted to try that orange-fennel salad! We did manage to get a drink and some olives, though, so we sat there in the sun and worked our way through two rounds of those. Meanwhile we were already looking forward to coming back — on a weekday next time, so we'd be sure to get a table. The menu had traditional dishes, but also a lot of modern Sicilian cooking. By that I mean: original compositions of their own, but still rooted in classic flavor pairings. Like this creamy lemon pasta with stracciatella, smoked ham, scallion, parsley, and black pepper. Bright, salty, creamy, with just the right kick.

Pasta with Stracciatella & Smoked Ham — Serves 2

Ingredients

200 g (7 oz) spaghetti or linguine

150–200 g (5–7 oz) stracciatella di bufala

80–100 g (3–3.5 oz) smoked ham, cut into thin strips

2 scallions, finely chopped

1 organic lemon

A small handful of finely chopped flat-leaf parsley

1 garlic clove, minced

2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil

40 g (3 tbsp) butter

Freshly ground black pepper

25–30 g (¼ cup, packed) Parmesan, finely grated

Salt

Instructions

1

Prep: Finely zest about half a lemon. Then squeeze out roughly 1–2 tsp of lemon juice.

2

Cook the pasta: Boil the pasta in well-salted water until just al dente. Before draining, set aside a good mugful of the pasta water.

3

Build the base: Heat the olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the minced garlic and let it perfume the oil for just 30–45 seconds — don't let it brown.

4

Add the ham: Toss in about two-thirds of the smoked ham and cook briefly. Then add the butter and half of the scallions.

5

Combine with pasta: Add the pasta to the pan along with a splash of the pasta water. Lower the heat and toss well. Stir in the Parmesan, adding more pasta water as needed until you get a glossy, silky sauce.

6

Turn off the heat. Stir in the lemon zest and 1–2 tsp of lemon juice. Taste — it should be bright, not sour.

7

Serve: Divide between two (deep) plates. Top with the stracciatella, remaining ham, scallions, and parsley. Finish with plenty of freshly cracked black pepper and a light drizzle of good olive oil. Sprinkle with a little extra parsley. Important: go easy on the salt — the smoked ham and Parmesan already bring plenty.

After Harry's accident, I went back to this trattoria a few more times. Once with my daughter, once with her, among others. The two experiences couldn't have been more different. When I went with my daughter, it was peak tourist season. The place filled up in no time, and we felt pushed aside. We hadn't even finished our appetizer before the main course got wedged onto our already cramped table. I don't think that's acceptable. But since Harry and I had generally been treated so well there, I was willing to let it slide. The next time I went, with two women I knew from a nearby town, it was the exact opposite — the place was empty. We were literally the only customers, and it took forever before anyone came to serve us.

Since those last visits, I've had the feeling that this trattoria — like others I've known — has succumbed a bit too easily to the steady flow of tourist income. And for me, that takes the fun out of it.

Shame, really, because it was a lovely little terrace in the Sicilian sun. Even in winter! But hey... don't let that stop you from trying this incredible pasta dish. Because that inspiration is not something we're giving up! 😜

What do you think, would you like this pasta too?  

Photo: Brooke Lark